Light painting is when you control the light that enters the camera’s lens and use it to "paint" something on the photograph. It’s usually done in low-light situations and is a great way to create unique photographs which explore the endless possibilities of photography. There are an infinite number of ways to light paint, beginning with your source of light and ending with what you draw!
ライトペインティングは薄暗い場所でとてもきれいに撮影できます。辺りが暗くなるのを待つか、暗い部屋に行って撮影しましょう。
カメラを三脚(もしくは変わりに支えるもの)で固定しましょう。そしてライトペインティングの撮影中に誰かが触ってずれることが無いよう注意しましょう。
Set your camera to the B shutter setting. This allows for a long exposure. It means that the shutter will stay open for a longer time so that more light will enter the lens.
Grab your light source, hit the shutter release, and start getting creative. Try using a sparkler to see sparks fly!
If you want to write a message on your picture, remember to do it backwards if you want it to be legible after processing. Alternately, just draw something, wiggle around or trace something — experiment!
この新しく開発されたテクニック・ライトペインティングをたくさん試して、上達してあなたの写真の腕前を磨いて下さい!
You’ll need a camera with a Bulb Mode function. Any of these cameras will work!
You can also just use a super flat and solid surface like a table top, but for adventures further afield, you’ll need a tripod. One of these will do the trick!
Anything that emits light will work — a torch, a glow stick, a sparkler, and so on. There are tons of special light painting tools that you could use, too! These are purpose-built and have awesome features that create super cool effects. Check them out!
If you’re in the city at night, set up your camera and take a long exposure of the light trails cars leave as they drive past. At a carnival or amusement park let a spinning ferris wheel do the painting for you.
Take a picture of your cat, a flower, a car, whatever; then light paint a cat, flower, car on top of the initial image for a crazy effect! The possibilities are endless!
Set up an ultra-long exposure, position your camera on a tripod, point it up at a clear night sky and see the path that the stars make once your image is developed. Read more about star-trail photography in this article by blueskyandhardrock.
このテクニックは誰でも簡単にできます。ただしちゃんと気を付けるべきことを守って下さいね!
気を付けることを読む →
Here’s to the bold and the brave: something to try if you’re feeling mischievous with light painting.
Read more →
どうやったらぱちぱちスパークルしている写真が撮れるのか、そのトリックはこちら。
詳しく読む →
とってもクリエイティブなライト・ペインティングな例で、ダンスをして撮影するというのがあります。
詳しく読む →
This depends on what you are trying to capture. If you are drawing something, just leave your shutter open for as long as you are painting for. If you want to capture a night scene with moving objects, you should be safe with a 5-10 second exposure (depending on the speed that the light source is moving at). But these are just guidelines — experiment and find out what works best for you!
Try and take a look through your viewfinder. If you are in the dark then illuminate the scene so you can see, then try and mark how far you can go vertically and horizontally so that you’ll remain inside your frame when the photo is taken.
This can definitely be tricky! But some letters such as T,I,O,M,H,Y,U,W,X,V & A are disaffected by this mirror writing rule, so if you don’t want to bother with writing backwards just fiddle about with those letters. If you do want to use the rest of the alphabet or want to draw an image, just imagine you are looking at it in a mirror and write it that way.
お手持ちのカメラがマニュアルシャッターであれば、誰か友達にシャッターを切っておらって、その間にあなたがライトペインティングをしましょう。
暗闇の中での撮影ならば、何かが光始めるまでの動きはあまり写真に写りません。
Lomography is a Magazine, Shop and Community dedicated to analogue photography.
It all began with a fateful encounter in the early 1990s, when two students in Vienna, Austria, stumbled upon the Lomo Kompakt Automat — a small, enigmatic Russian camera. Mindlessly taking shots from the hip, and sometimes looking through the viewfinder, they were astounded by the mind-blowing photos it produced — the colors were vibrant, with deep saturation and vignettes that framed the shot — it was nothing like they had seen before!
帰国するとすぐに、多くの友人たちが彼ら自身の為のLOMO LC-Aを求め始めました。こうして、アーティスティックな写真への新しいスタイルに火が付き、皆さんがご存知のLomographyが生まれました!
レンズが開いている時間のことです。
シャッターが動く早さのことです。露光時間(シャッターをあけっぱなしにできる時間)と密接に関わっています。
写真を撮る時に押すボタンのことです!
レンズが開く大きさを表します。レンズ口径はF値という言葉で表されます。レンズが大きく開いている状態では、F値は小さい数(F.2、F.4等)で表されます。逆にレンズ口径が小さいと、F値は大きくなります(F.16、F.20等)。もし写真に光を多く取り込みたいのであれば、口径が大きいもの(F値が小さいもの)を使います。逆にあまり光を取り組みたくないのであれば、口径が小さいもの(F値が大きいもの)を使います。
The B stands for " Bulb ". The B setting allows you to manually hold the shutter open and this gives you full freedom over how long you want to expose your photo for. Some Lomography cameras which have a B setting are the La Sardina, Fisheye No.2, Sprocket Rocket, Belair Cameras, Lubitel 166+, Diana F+ and Diana Mini.
撮影する時に写る範囲を確認するために覗くウインドウのことです。
Join the Lomography Community to share your light paintings with millions of creatives all over the world! There are tons of artistic light paintings on our Community page, too, so it’s the perfect place to go for inspiration. Comment on your favorites to ask for tips from your fellow Lomographers!
Don’t forget to show your friends your new light painting skills on social media, too. Use the hashtags #mylomo #lomography to connect with other Lomographers on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter.